Galway: West Ireland's Vibrant Medieval Hub

It was about halfway through my trip in Ireland. I had already spent some time exploring Dublin, visited some famous landmarks in the city, and even side tripped to Kilkenny and the Wicklow Mountains. The time had finally come for me to visit what is arguably the most beautiful region in the Republic of Ireland: the west coast. I had always dreamed of visiting this picturesque area, especially for the famed Cliffs of Moher! There is no better home base in West Ireland than the city of Galway.

Eyre Square

After a two and a half hour bus ride from Dublin, I arrived in the young and vibrant city. As a university town, Galway has one of the youngest populations in Europe, and this is easily experienced while exploring its lively streets. The centerpiece of this city is Eyre Square: a public park surrounded by restaurants, pubs, and shops. Although commonly known by its original name, the park is officially called “John F. Kennedy Memorial Park.” This change was made in 1965 to honor the Irish American president’s visit to the city. A statue exists today at the location where the president gave his speech.

Much like in other cities, I knew that a walking tour would be the best way to learn about the city’s history and explore its highlights. I arrived at Eyre Square to meet up with the group and tour guide: an Irish woman from the countryside who now calls Galway her home. After an introduction to the city and the square, we set off on our tour.

Medieval Remnants

Our first stop was actually inside the city’s main shopping center. Below the modern shopping arcades lies some of Galway’s original medieval walls. Dating back to the 13^th century, these walls protected the original settlement and its castle. Before the construction of the modern-day shopping center in the late 1980s, archaeologists discovered this wall and had it preserved as part of the building’s design. Thus, today’s shopping center is a hybrid of old stone walls and modern steel and glass. I saw a similar concept in Cusco, Peru, where the original Inca stonework makes up the base of the city’s colonial-style buildings. Although this shopping center does not blend the styles in the same beautiful manner that I saw in Cusco, it still preserves an important part of Galway’s history for visitors.

Galway’s city center is bustling with tourists and locals alike. Our guide took us down Shop Street, which as its name suggests, is the city’s main pedestrian shopping drag. Much like in Dublin and Kilkenny, Galway’s shopfronts feature inspirations from a variety of architectural styles and are painted in bold colors. The main building materials here are stone, stucco, and wood. Nestled within the bustling center is a small castle that was once owned by the powerful Lynch family. This structure is the only remaining secular medieval building in the city, and is a fine example of Irish Gothic architecture, boasting gargoyles and carved windows. Although today, the building simply houses a bank, it is an important piece of history tucked away in central Galway that our guide made sure we didn’t miss.

Two More Landmarks

We continued down Shop Street for one more block before veering off towards another medieval landmark.

“A walking tour is not complete without a church,” our guide said. And thus, she took us to St. Nicholas Collegiate Church.

The gray limestone building takes inspiration from other Gothic buildings, with pointed arched windows, traceries, and pinnacles. However, much like St. Canice’s and St. Mary’s cathedrals in Kilkenny, the design features minimal ornamentation.

We entered the cruciform-plan church. Much like the exterior, the interior is minimalist Gothic. The central nave is lined with pointed stone arches. However, in lieu of ribbed vaulting, the ceiling is a simple plastered barrel vault. The wooden seats and yellow paint give the interior warmth compared to the other limestone cathedrals I visited in Ireland.

After the church visit, our guide took us down Quay Street past more shops, restaurants, and beautiful architecture. Eventually, the street met the River Corrib, Galway’s main waterway, and we continued towards the waterfront. We finished our tour at the Spanish Arch. This large stone structure was built as an extension of the original medieval walls in order to protect the city’s quays. Today, it is the gateway to The Long Walk along Galway’s waterfront. Our guide described this arch as the “Arc de Triomphe” of Galway. However, the rugged architecture of the Spanish Arch cannot compare to the exquisite Parisian arch.

From here, I parted ways with our guide, whose knowledge of Galway made me appreciate this charming and lively medieval city. Although my walking tour here was short and brief compared to others, it was the perfect length for a city that you can easily explore in one day.

Galway Cathedral

Before the group split up, our guide gave us suggestions of other places to visit in the area. I immediately headed to one of these landmarks: the Galway Cathedral. Although our guide did not think the cathedral was all that special, I knew that it would be at the top of my list as an architect. After a short walk up the river, I arrived at the grand building: the newest cathedral on the continent! While the building’s architecture is primarily inspired by the Renaissance style, particularly its prominent dome and front pillars, there are also characteristics from the Gothic and Spanish styles. The stone exterior features smaller than average windows, as well as less ornamentation than many older churches. As a result, the overall look is austere, leading some critics to refer to the building as a “monstrosity.”

Despite its flaws, it is still a magnificent place to visit. Inside, the materials are warm and inviting. The stonework from the exterior spills inside to create arches that line the central nave. A wooden coffered ceiling spans this grand space, taking on the form of a traditional barrel vault. The floor is comprised entirely of marble tiles, which form a beautiful pattern. Additionally, the lighting of the cathedral’s interior is bright and elegant. Alongside the warm-colored downlights, stained glass windows let in a hint of natural light inside. Blue mood lighting creates an eerie effect below the massive dome.

From the cathedral, I ventured back down the River Corrib towards the waterfront. Galway is an important seaport town along the Atlantic Ocean, and thus, its waterfront is a delight to walk along. I crossed a bridge onto the Eglinton Canal sea lock. The grassy area here provides the perfect vantage point to admire the colorful houses along The Long Walk. Much like the houses in Reykjavík, these ones are painted in bright pastels. However, the primary façade finish is stucco as opposed to corrugated metal. I took a moment to enjoy the refreshing waterfront breeze as I watched the seagulls fly by.

Overall, while it might be small in size, Galway is a city with hidden history that is worth spending a day in for anyone traveling West Ireland. As a solo traveler, it can be hard to move on to a new city especially after having a fantastic friend group in another. I met amazing people during my time in Dublin, and it was not easy to say goodbye. However, little did I know just how meaningful these connections could be even for a short time.

Old and New Friends

When I posted that I was in Galway on social media, my friend Meenal immediately messaged me. She was on a day tour to West Ireland from Dublin and had some free time in Galway. We met up at a local pub for drinks and Guinness stew. During our time together, I got to know her even more. I found out that she has been to over 35 countries, most of which she visited by herself! It is amazing to know that even as a woman in her 30s with a steady job in the tech industry, she still makes time to travel and explore the world. She also understands the financial struggle that backpackers experience and didn’t hesitate to treat me to drinks. It was sad to finally part ways, but I know we will be in touch about our future travel adventures.

Thankfully, I also met amazing friends at my hostel in Galway, including Lani from Israel, Arik from Canada, Ilija from Croatia, and Cassie from Australia! I will never forget our time playing Queen of Mao: a card game that only Lani knew the rules for. As each of us tried to play the game, she constantly penalized us for the silliest mistakes, until each of us cracked the code. We also got the chance to bond over drinks at a nearby pub. Much like in Dublin, Galway’s nightlife is energetic and features many venues with traditional Irish music and plenty of beer. As I have mentioned over and over again, traveling is more than just about the places I get to visit. It is also about the friends I meet from all over the world.